/* Patevoditel.com — editorial travel guide. No framework. */
@font-face{font-family:"PV Display";src:url(/fonts/pv-display-700.woff2) format("woff2");font-weight:700;font-style:normal;font-display:swap}
:root{
  --paper:#f6f1e7;--surface:#fffcf6;--sunk:#efe8da;--ink:#1c2420;--muted:#535e57;--line:#d9cfbd;
  --forest:#1f4d3a;--forest-ink:#fff;--moss:#2e6a4f;--stamp:#a8402b;--sky:#2c5d7c;--warn-bg:#fbefd8;--warn-ink:#5b3d07;
  --display:"PV Display",Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;
  --sans:system-ui,-apple-system,"Segoe UI",Roboto,"Noto Sans","Helvetica Neue",Arial,sans-serif;
  --r:14px;--r-sm:8px;--shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(28,36,32,.06),0 8px 24px -12px rgba(28,36,32,.18);
  --wrap:72rem;--measure:40rem;color-scheme:light dark
}
@media (prefers-color-scheme:dark){:root{
  --paper:#121713;--surface:#1a211c;--sunk:#202923;--ink:#ebe6db;--muted:#a9b3ab;--line:#2f3a33;
  --forest:#86c4a1;--forest-ink:#0f1a14;--moss:#9fd3b5;--stamp:#ee8d73;--sky:#8fc0de;--warn-bg:#33290f;--warn-ink:#f3dca7;
  --shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(0,0,0,.3),0 10px 26px -14px rgba(0,0,0,.6)}}
*,*::before,*::after{box-sizing:border-box}
html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%;text-size-adjust:100%}
body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:400 1.0625rem/1.65 var(--sans);text-rendering:optimizeLegibility}
img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}
a{color:var(--forest);text-decoration-thickness:1px;text-underline-offset:.18em}
a:hover{color:var(--stamp)}
:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--stamp);outline-offset:3px;border-radius:4px}
h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:700;font-variant-numeric:lining-nums;font-feature-settings:"lnum" 1;line-height:1.15;letter-spacing:-.01em;margin:0 0 .5em;text-wrap:balance}
h1{font-size:clamp(2rem,1.3rem + 3.2vw,3.4rem)}
h2{font-size:clamp(1.45rem,1.1rem + 1.4vw,2rem);margin-top:1.6em}
h3{font-size:1.2rem;font-family:var(--sans);font-weight:700;letter-spacing:0}
p{margin:0 0 1em}
ul,ol{padding-left:1.25em}
li{margin:.25em 0}
.skip{position:absolute;left:-999px;top:0;background:var(--forest);color:var(--forest-ink);padding:.7em 1em;z-index:100;border-radius:0 0 var(--r-sm) 0}
.skip:focus{left:0}
.wrap{width:min(100% - 2rem,var(--wrap));margin-inline:auto}
.measure{max-width:var(--measure)}
.muted{color:var(--muted)}
.vh{position:absolute!important;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0 0 0 0);white-space:nowrap}

/* Header */
.site-head{background:var(--surface);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);position:relative;z-index:10}
.site-head .wrap{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem;min-height:4rem}
.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.6rem;color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none;font-family:var(--display);font-size:1.35rem}
.brand svg{width:34px;height:34px;flex:none}
.brand small{display:block;font:500 .72rem/1.2 var(--sans);color:var(--muted);letter-spacing:.04em}
.nav ul{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;display:flex;gap:.25rem}
.nav a{display:block;padding:.55rem .75rem;border-radius:999px;color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none;font-weight:600;font-size:.95rem}
.nav a:hover{background:var(--sunk);color:var(--ink)}
.nav a[aria-current]{background:var(--forest);color:var(--forest-ink)}
.menu summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;padding:.6rem .9rem;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:999px;font-weight:600;min-height:44px}
.menu summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.menu .nav{position:absolute;left:0;right:0;top:100%;background:var(--surface);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);box-shadow:var(--shadow);padding:.5rem 1rem 1rem}
.menu .nav ul{flex-direction:column}
.menu .nav a{padding:.8rem .9rem;border-radius:var(--r-sm)}
.nav-desk{display:none}
@media (min-width:900px){.nav-desk{display:block}.menu{display:none}}

/* Breadcrumbs */
.crumbs{font-size:.88rem;color:var(--muted);margin-top:1.2rem;margin-bottom:.4rem}
.crumbs ol{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.2rem}
.crumbs li{margin:0}
.crumbs li+li::before{content:"/";margin:0 .45rem 0 .2rem;color:var(--line)}
.crumbs a{color:var(--muted)}

/* Hero */
.hero{display:grid;gap:1.5rem;padding:1.5rem 0 2.5rem;align-items:center}
@media (min-width:860px){.hero{grid-template-columns:1.05fr 1fr;gap:3rem;padding:3rem 0 3.5rem}}
.kicker{font:700 .78rem/1.2 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--stamp);margin:0 0 .8rem}
.lead{font-size:1.18rem;line-height:1.6;color:var(--ink)}
.hero figure{margin:0}
.hero img,.photo img{border-radius:var(--r);box-shadow:var(--shadow);width:100%;aspect-ratio:3/2;object-fit:cover;background:var(--sunk)}
figcaption,.credit{font-size:.78rem;color:var(--muted);margin-top:.45rem;line-height:1.45}
figcaption a,.credit a{color:var(--muted)}
.actions{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.6rem;margin-top:1.4rem}
.btn{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.45rem;min-height:44px;padding:.6rem 1.15rem;border-radius:999px;font:700 .95rem/1.2 var(--sans);text-decoration:none;border:2px solid var(--forest);background:var(--forest);color:var(--forest-ink);cursor:pointer}
.btn:hover{background:var(--moss);border-color:var(--moss);color:var(--forest-ink)}
.btn.ghost{background:transparent;color:var(--forest)}
.btn.ghost:hover{background:var(--sunk);color:var(--forest)}
.btn[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--stamp);border-color:var(--stamp);color:#fff}

/* Sections */
.band{background:var(--surface);border-block:1px solid var(--line);padding:2.5rem 0;margin:2.5rem 0}
.section-head{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:baseline;justify-content:space-between;gap:.5rem 1rem;margin-bottom:1.2rem}
.section-head h2{margin:0}
.grid{display:grid;gap:1rem;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(min(100%,15.5rem),1fr))}
.tiles{display:grid;gap:1rem;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(min(100%,16rem),1fr))}
.tile{background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:1.25rem;box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.tile h3{margin:.2rem 0 .4rem;font-family:var(--display);font-size:1.3rem}
.tile p{margin:0;color:var(--muted)}
.tile a{text-decoration:none}
.tile a::after{content:" →"}

/* Cards */
.card{position:relative;display:flex;flex-direction:column;background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);overflow:hidden;box-shadow:var(--shadow);transition:transform .2s ease-out}
.card:hover{transform:translateY(-2px)}
.card img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:3/2;object-fit:cover;background:var(--sunk)}
.card .ph{aspect-ratio:3/2;background:linear-gradient(135deg,var(--sunk),var(--paper));display:grid;place-items:center;color:var(--muted);font-family:var(--display);font-size:2.2rem}
.card-body{padding:.9rem 1rem 1.1rem;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:.25rem;flex:1}
.card h3{font-size:1.04rem;line-height:1.3;margin:0}
.card h3 a{color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none}
.card h3 a::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0}
.card h3 a:hover{color:var(--forest)}
.card .meta{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--muted);margin:0}
.card .stamp{position:absolute;top:.6rem;left:.6rem}
.card.visited .stamp{background:var(--stamp);color:#fff;border-color:#fff}

/* Stamp motif */
.stamp{font-variant-numeric:lining-nums;display:inline-grid;place-items:center;min-width:3.1rem;height:3.1rem;padding:0 .35rem;border-radius:50%;border:2px dashed var(--stamp);background:var(--surface);color:var(--stamp);font:700 1rem/1 var(--display);transform:rotate(-8deg);box-shadow:0 0 0 3px var(--surface)}
.stamp.big{min-width:5.2rem;height:5.2rem;font-size:1.6rem}
.stamp small{display:block;font:700 .55rem/1 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.12em}

/* Object page */
.obj-head{display:grid;gap:1.25rem;align-items:start;margin:.5rem 0 1.5rem}
@media (min-width:860px){.obj-head{grid-template-columns:auto 1fr;gap:1.75rem}}
.obj-head h1{margin-bottom:.35rem}
.obj-head>*,.layout>*,.hero>*{min-width:0}
.obj-head .stamp{justify-self:start}
.prose,.panel{overflow-wrap:break-word}
.photo{margin:0 0 1.5rem}
.chips{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.4rem;margin:.6rem 0 0;padding:0;list-style:none}
.chips li{margin:0}
.chip{display:inline-block;padding:.3rem .7rem;border-radius:999px;background:var(--sunk);color:var(--ink);font-size:.85rem;text-decoration:none;border:1px solid var(--line)}
a.chip:hover{border-color:var(--forest);color:var(--forest)}
.layout{display:grid;gap:2rem}
@media (min-width:980px){.layout{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 20rem;gap:3rem}}
.prose{max-width:var(--measure)}
.prose h2:first-child{margin-top:0}
.aside>*+*{margin-top:1rem}
.panel{background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:1.1rem 1.2rem}
.panel h2,.panel h3{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:1rem;margin:0 0 .6rem;letter-spacing:0;text-transform:none}
.panel ul{margin:0;padding-left:1.1rem}
.panel dl{margin:0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto 1fr;gap:.35rem .8rem;font-size:.95rem}
.panel dt{color:var(--muted)}
.panel dd{margin:0;font-weight:600}
.list-plain{list-style:none;padding:0!important;margin:0}
.list-plain li{padding:.45rem 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);margin:0}
.list-plain li:last-child{border-bottom:0}
.dist{float:right;color:var(--muted);font-size:.85rem;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.note{background:var(--warn-bg);color:var(--warn-ink);border-radius:var(--r-sm);padding:.8rem 1rem;font-size:.95rem}
.note a{color:inherit}
.objects{counter-reset:o;list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0 0 1.5rem}
.objects li{counter-increment:o;position:relative;padding:.7rem 0 .7rem 2.4rem;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);margin:0}
.objects li::before{content:counter(o);position:absolute;left:0;top:.65rem;width:1.7rem;height:1.7rem;border-radius:50%;background:var(--forest);color:var(--forest-ink);font:700 .85rem/1.7rem var(--sans);text-align:center}
.objects .meta{display:block;font-size:.85rem;color:var(--muted)}
.tips{list-style:none;padding:0}
.tips li{position:relative;padding-left:1.6rem}
.tips li::before{content:"";position:absolute;left:.2rem;top:.55em;width:.55rem;height:.55rem;border-radius:2px;background:var(--stamp);transform:rotate(45deg)}
.sources{font-size:.9rem}
.sources li{word-break:break-word}

/* Filter / hub */
.filters{display:grid;gap:.75rem;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(min(100%,12rem),1fr));align-items:end;background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:1rem;margin:1rem 0}
.filters label{display:block;font-size:.85rem;font-weight:700;margin-bottom:.3rem}
.filters input,.filters select{width:100%;min-height:44px;padding:.5rem .7rem;border-radius:var(--r-sm);border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:inherit;font-size:1rem}
.check{display:flex;gap:.5rem;align-items:center;min-height:44px;font-weight:600}
.check input{width:1.25rem;height:1.25rem;min-height:0;accent-color:var(--stamp)}
.count{font-weight:700}
.progress{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:1rem;background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:1rem 1.2rem}
.bar{flex:1 1 12rem;height:.7rem;background:var(--sunk);border-radius:999px;overflow:hidden}
.bar i{display:block;height:100%;width:0;background:var(--stamp);border-radius:inherit;transition:width .3s ease-out}
.number-group{margin-top:1rem;padding-top:1rem;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
@media (min-width:700px){.number-group{display:grid;grid-template-columns:5rem 1fr;gap:1rem;align-items:start}}
.rows{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0;display:grid;gap:.6rem;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(min(100%,21rem),1fr))}
.row{position:relative;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.9rem;margin:0;background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:.75rem .8rem .75rem .9rem}
.row .stamp{flex:none;min-width:2.9rem;height:2.9rem;font-size:.95rem}
.row>div{flex:1;min-width:0}
.row h3{font-size:1rem;margin:0;line-height:1.3}
.row h3 a{color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none}
.row h3 a::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0}
.row:hover{border-color:var(--forest)}
.row .meta{margin:.15rem 0 0;font-size:.84rem;color:var(--muted)}
.row.visited{border-color:var(--stamp)}
.row.visited .stamp{background:var(--stamp);color:#fff}
.tick{position:relative;z-index:1;flex:none;width:44px;height:44px;border-radius:50%;border:2px solid var(--line);background:var(--paper);cursor:pointer}
.tick::after{content:"";position:absolute;left:14px;top:9px;width:9px;height:17px;border:solid transparent;border-width:0 3px 3px 0;transform:rotate(45deg)}
.tick[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--stamp);border-color:var(--stamp)}
.tick[aria-pressed=true]::after{border-color:#fff}
.tick:hover{border-color:var(--stamp)}
.number-group h2{font-size:1.35rem;margin:.6rem 0 .6rem;color:var(--forest)}
[hidden]{display:none!important}

/* Tables / checklist */
.checklist{columns:2 16rem;column-gap:2rem}
.checklist section{break-inside:avoid;margin-bottom:1rem}
.checklist h3{margin:0 0 .4rem}
.checklist ul{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}
.checklist li{padding-left:1.7rem;position:relative}
.checklist li::before{content:"";position:absolute;left:0;top:.3em;width:1rem;height:1rem;border:2px solid var(--forest);border-radius:3px}
.sos{display:grid;gap:1rem;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(min(100%,14rem),1fr));margin:1rem 0 2rem}
.sos a{display:block;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);background:var(--surface);border:2px solid var(--stamp);border-radius:var(--r);padding:1rem 1.2rem}
.sos strong{display:block;font:700 2.4rem/1 var(--display);color:var(--stamp)}
.route-day{border-left:3px solid var(--line);padding-left:1.1rem;margin:1rem 0 1.5rem}
.route-day h3{margin-top:0}
.faq details{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:.8rem 0}
.faq summary{cursor:pointer;font-weight:700}
.faq details p{margin:.6rem 0 0}

/* Footer */
.site-foot{margin-top:4rem;background:var(--surface);border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:2.5rem 0 2rem;font-size:.92rem}
.foot-grid{display:grid;gap:1.5rem;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(min(100%,13rem),1fr))}
.site-foot h2{font:700 .8rem/1.2 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);margin:0 0 .6rem}
.site-foot ul{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}
.site-foot a{color:var(--ink)}
.fine{margin-top:2rem;color:var(--muted);font-size:.85rem}

/* utilities (replace inline styles; CSP forbids them) */
.u-head{margin:1rem 0 1.5rem}.u-head2{margin:.5rem 0 1.5rem}.u-mt2{margin-top:2rem}.u-mt25{margin-top:2.5rem}.u-mt0{margin-top:0}
.u-m0{margin:0}.u-mb03{margin-bottom:.3rem}.u-blocksm{display:block;font-size:.9rem}.u-fs12{font-size:1.2rem}.u-py3{padding:3rem 0}
.u-wauto{width:auto}.u-px15{padding:0 1.5rem}.u-boxed{border-radius:var(--r);border:1px solid var(--line)}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){*{transition:none!important;scroll-behavior:auto!important}.card:hover{transform:none}}
@page{size:A4;margin:12mm 12mm 14mm}
@media print{
  .site-head,.site-foot,.crumbs,.actions,.filters,.aside .panel.noprint,.skip,.noprint{display:none!important}
  .number-group{display:block;margin:0;padding:0;border:0}
  .number-group h2,.tick,.progress .bar{display:none}
  .rows{display:block;columns:2;column-gap:8mm}
  .row{break-inside:avoid;gap:2mm;border:0;border-bottom:.5pt solid #999;border-radius:0;padding:1.1mm 0;background:none;box-shadow:none}
  .row .stamp{min-width:9mm;height:9mm;border:1px solid #000;background:#fff;color:#000;box-shadow:none;font-size:8pt}
  .row.visited .stamp{background:#000;color:#fff;-webkit-print-color-adjust:exact;print-color-adjust:exact}
  .row h3{font-size:9.5pt}.row .meta{font-size:7.5pt;color:#333}
  .progress{border:0;padding:0;background:none}
  body{background:#fff;color:#000;font-size:11pt}
  a{color:#000}
  .layout{display:block}.checklist{columns:2}
  .checklist li::before{border-color:#000}
  .band{border:0;padding:0;margin:1rem 0;background:#fff}
}
.sr-only{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;padding:0;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0,0,0,0);white-space:nowrap;border:0}
.route-map{margin:0 0 1.5rem;background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:.5rem}
.route-map svg{display:block;width:100%;height:auto}
.route-map figcaption{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--muted);padding:.25rem .5rem}
.rm-line{fill:none;stroke:var(--stamp);stroke-width:3;stroke-dasharray:7 6;stroke-linecap:round}
.rm-pt{fill:var(--forest);stroke:var(--surface);stroke-width:3}
.rm-n{fill:var(--forest-ink);font:700 14px var(--sans);text-anchor:middle;dominant-baseline:central}
.rm-scale{stroke:var(--ink);stroke-width:3}
.rm-t{fill:var(--muted);font:13px var(--sans)}
.rm-end{text-anchor:end}
.objects .stop-note{display:block;margin-top:.2rem}
.waitlist label{display:block;font-weight:600;margin-bottom:.3rem}
.waitlist input[type=email]{width:100%;max-width:26rem;min-height:44px;padding:.5rem .7rem;border-radius:var(--r-sm);border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:inherit}
.waitlist .consent{font-weight:400;display:flex;gap:.6rem;align-items:flex-start;font-size:.95rem}
.waitlist .consent input{width:1.3rem;height:1.3rem;flex:none;margin-top:.2rem}
.bg-map{margin:1rem 0;background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:.5rem}
.bg-map svg{display:block;width:100%;height:auto}
.bg-map figcaption{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--muted);padding:.25rem .5rem}
.bg-land{fill:var(--sunk);stroke:var(--line);stroke-width:1.5}
.bg-map .md{stroke:var(--surface);stroke-width:1.5}
.bg-map a:hover .md,.bg-map a:focus .md{stroke:var(--ink);stroke-width:2.5}
.map-legend{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:.5rem 0 1.5rem;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.4rem 1rem;font-size:.9rem}
.map-legend svg{width:.8rem;height:.8rem;margin-right:.35rem;vertical-align:-.05rem}
/* GA4 consent banner (R58): fixed at the bottom (no layout shift), two equal buttons. */
.linklike{background:none;border:0;padding:0;font:inherit;color:inherit;text-align:left;cursor:pointer;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}
.linklike:hover{color:var(--forest)}
.consent{position:fixed;left:.75rem;right:.75rem;bottom:.75rem;z-index:50;max-width:42rem;margin:0 auto;background:var(--surface);color:var(--ink);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);box-shadow:var(--shadow);padding:.9rem 1rem;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:.7rem 1rem;font-size:.95rem;line-height:1.45}
.consent[hidden]{display:none}
.consent p{margin:0;flex:1 1 18rem}
.consent a{color:var(--forest)}
.consent-btns{display:flex;gap:.6rem;flex:1 1 14rem}
.consent-btns button{flex:1 1 0;min-height:44px;padding:.5rem 1rem;border:2px solid var(--forest);border-radius:999px;background:var(--surface);color:var(--ink);font:inherit;font-weight:600;cursor:pointer}
.consent-btns button:hover{background:var(--sunk)}
.consent-btns button:focus-visible,.linklike:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--forest);outline-offset:2px}
@media print{.consent{display:none!important}}